Truck Stacks

Rationale

Arguably the best looking pipes for the Valk, and the install couldn't be easier.
The stacks shown here are chromed carbon steel, cut after being chromed.  This depends on perfect chrome - that won't peel if you cut it. 

Illustrated here, is how to cut and install stacks yourself. The 36" size I used here weigh 9 lbs each, though after replacing the straight cover and tip (and changing to glasspacks) the overall weight including bones is only up 3 lbs from stock.  Not a bad tradeoff, with the gain in ponies and the OUTSTANDING sound and look.  I did this mod mainly for looks - but it does change the sound - my glasspack note got deeper, a little more volume, and moved farther back.  I really like the effect.

Of course other end styles are available, slashcuts and turnouts.  Turnouts won't work with my TromBone Glasspacks™ assuming you want to change the sound easily, but I like the straight look anyway.

If yours is an Interstate, see the Interstate Stacks Install page for additional tips.

This install can be done with the pipes on the bike - I did and it was easy.

If you got your stacks from Horseapple Ranch Stacks, all of the cutting on the stacks is already complete - you can skip to prepping the cans.  If you already have TromBone Glasspacks™, the spot welds are already removed and you can skip to removing the locator clip.  If you have Packs&Stacks from Horseapple Ranch, you can skip this whole page and go directly to Exhaust R&R Tips!

Cost

$195 for uncut 36" Howitzers like these if you can find them. Or see Stainless Stacks page.

Time

Took me an hour complete including taking these pictures.

Materials
 

• 36" Horseapple Ranch Stainless Stacks, Howitzers, Blades, or Bugles

Tools
 

• 4 1/2" angle grinder with grinding and cutting wheels, or Dremel as below, hack saw, cold chisel and hammer.
• air die grinder with 1/2" carbide burr, or Dremel with rotary file or several steel cutting stones, or mill bastard file
• Carpenter's square
• fine point felt marker
• masking tape
• mallet or dead blow hammer
• block of 4X4 wood
• small vicegrips
• 8 mm & 10 mm wrenches
• fire extinguisher

Process

Unpack your stacks and remove the wrapping and cling wrap.  Inspect the chrome, looking for any imperfections you'll want to the inside.  I didn't find any.  

You need to provide clearance for the stack to fit past the rear muffler mount, forward to the back edge of the curved cover, if you didn't get them from Horseapple Ranch (which are precut).  If you are retrofitting TromBone Glasspacks™ that were purchased after April '99, you will also need to provide clearance past the muffler clamp.   Stacks from Horseapple Ranch are cut to fit these clamps.   Here's a couple shots of my templates with dimensions marked to clear the clamps:

One other change is needed if you already have TromBone Glasspacks™ - the levers are hard to reach inside the stack.  Click here to go to the retrofit tech page. You might want to do the retrofit before you continue here.

Lay out the paper they were wrapped in on a wood table and lightly clamp one of the stacks to the table from the inside with the imperfections (if any) side up.  Apply masking tape to the end of the top, about 3" wide by 10" long. 

Using the Carpenter's square, mark a rectangle 1 7/8" wide by 8 1/2" long.  I had to shoot this pic with one hand, but you get the idea.

Cut out the rectangle using the angle grinder and cutting wheel. 

WARNING - Watch where you send the sparks. 
Sending them into an open bag of charcoal is a bad idea.  Don't ask.

Bevel the edges inside and out with the die grinder/Dremel/file.

 

Remove the chrome tips and straight covers from your stock mufflers.  If you don't already have TromBone Glasspacks™, you will need to grind the two spot welds on the inside faces of the cans flush. 

Grind off the two spot welds attaching the straight cover locator clip and ensure the location is smooth. Or use a cold chisel, hammer, and mill bastard file to do it by hand.

Note the dent on the right can in the picture.  This is normal.  I cut this out when I install glasspacks, it's in the way.

Fold a shop rag in half 3 times and spray with WD40 until damp.  Wipe down the Honda muffler can so it's wet with lube.

Position the stack with the cutout aligned with the rear mount bracket and push it forward as far as it will go by hand - that will be most of the way on, watch the cutout alignment. 

Watching the cutout alignment and the forward edge drive it home with the mallet and block of wood.  Actually a 4X4 block is better, I busted this piece before I found out WD40 makes it slide on really easy.

Repeat above steps for the other side.

All technical mods described here are merely reports of what I've done.  You may attempt to replicate them at your own discretion and risk if you choose.  Horseapple Ranch, LLC and Mark Tobias will in no way be responsible for the results of your attempting to perform these mods on any motorcycle, regardless of the outcome.

All content on www.horseapple.com copyright 1999-2006 Mark Tobias except "Riders Say", "Dyno Day", Vallejo and Shop Manual and Alternator Review pages, and SWF and MP-3 files and their graphic icons, and any content specifically attributed to another author.  
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